Esther Olu, The Melanin Chemist, Does It All

Fragrance is the first impression you quietly convey, used to express your ever-changing moods, contrasting personas, and cherished memories. Does the invigorating burst of punchy citrus instantly revive your soul? Or do the depths of damp woods and zingy spices stir your senses awake? Welcome to ELLE Noteworthies, a collection of scent-imental musings, including a definitive guide to the finest fragrances we’ve encountered this year, poised to accompany you as you create new scent memories.

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Esther Olu has swatched, mixed, and spritzed more cosmetic products than the average beauty editor. Her hands have probably balanced the ingredients in your favorite serum and her decerning nose has likely tingled after concocting the perfect scent pairing in popular perfumes (though she remains tight-lipped on which ones). A career in science was always in the cards for Olu, but deciding what industry she wanted to be listed on her future white lab coat proved to be a laborious journey that required lots of research and reflection. However, she knew her future role melded the worlds of science and beauty. Process of elimination led her to cosmetic chemistry.

“A cosmetic chemist essentially develops personal care products (i.e., skincare, makeup, fragrance, hair care etc.). Cosmetic chemists create formulas, test them for safety, and aid in scaling lab formulations up to manufacturing for full-scale production,” she tells ELLE.com. “As a first-generation Nigerian-American, I felt the pressures to pursue traditional careers like engineering or pharmacy. As I took my undergraduate course, I realized I was not passionate about any of these career paths and would [be] doing myself and these industries a huge disservice,” she says. So, she researched and polled her classmates before landing on cosmetics chemistry. “It was such an unconventional career because it allowed me to still pursue my interests and passion in beauty and science, without having to sacrifice my happiness,” she states.

Most days, she’s perched in front of her camera, demystifying skincare and myth-busting the dizzying onslaught of skincare tips and tricks on the internet on TikTok and Instagram. Or, she’s lending her nose to ELLE.com’s first-ever guide to the best fragrances your nose will smell in 2023 as one of our most trusted beauty experts.

Like many children of immigrants, Olu’s introduction to scent was the kitchen. “My first scent memory was my mother cooking Nigerian food at home. The hints of strong spices that were in the foods she cooked, jollof rice, [and] stew, were unforgettable. Any time I smell Nigerian food, it reminds me of home,” she recalls. But her go-to fragrance palette is quite the opposite. “It’s a combination of sexy, confident, warm, and flirty. I like [my perfumes] to be sensual and confident, while simultaneously being inviting and playful,” she adds. She typically gravitates toward soft florals and citrus blends. “But in moderation,” she warns.

It’s no wonder YSL’s iconic Black Opium was her ELLE.com Noteworthies top choice. Black Opium seduces the wearer with a wash of gourmand goodness yet intensifies a spicy dry-down, marrying Olu’s opposing scent personas. “This a well-balanced blend of diverse notes that keeps you guessing,” she says.