ELLE Escapes: Sonoma
It’s hard to choose my favorite part about the Sonoma Valley region of California. Is it the raw power of the Pacific Ocean coastline as you cruise down Highway 1? The focus on sustainability in the award-winning local farm-to-table cuisine? Or simply the luxurious villas, spas, and, of course, the seemingly endless wineries?
Coincidentally, the all-around appeal is the same for my car of choice during my trip: the all-new McLaren Artua. The massive 670 horsepower engine made it easy to quickly navigate the winding coastline roads, yet fit right in as the automaker’s first-ever hybrid-powered engine in production. Top it all off with a gorgeous papaya colored exterior and an impeccably appointed interior that caters to the driver’s comfort, and you’ve got yourself one heck of a ride.
But back to my favorite part…it’s the wine, definitely the wine. Whether or not you’re a big drinker, here are some picks for a weekend getaway that cover all your bases.
What to See
Aperture Cellars
If I’m being honest, it’s hard to get past doing anything other than touring the vineyards in Sonoma. The sheer number of wineries can keep you busy for days, as many include galleries, picnics, hikes, and restaurants in tandem with wine tastings. But look no further than Aperture Cellars for a stunning balance of modern architecture, original photography from winemaker Jeff Katz’s father (also featured on every bottle), and delicious, Bordeaux-style wines sourced from century-old vines. Tastings range from $50 to a luxurious private lounge experience for $125.
Bohemian Highway Travel Co.
An afternoon road trip via the Bohemian Highway and Highway 1 will amaze you with its cultural and ecological diversity. Sure, you can book a private tour (as with many things in Sonoma) with companies like the Bohemian Highway Travel Co., but, if you’re lucky enough to have the ultimate sports car in your possession like I did, this is a great route to get a taste of everything—and fast.
Monte Rio
Be sure to check out the laid-back community of Monte Rio, where the 10-mile, two-lane Bohemian Highway weaves its way through the tiny hamlets of Occidental and Freestone. Easily one of the most scenic drives in California, you will experience all there is to love about Sonoma, including towering redwoods, serene pastures and farms, shops, restaurants and, yes, wineries.
Where to Eat
Single Thread
For the ultimate fine dining experience, look no further than Single Thread in downtown Healdsburg. With the distinction of being on a very small list of three Michelin-starred restaurants in the country, chef Kyle Connaughton and his wife Katina treat their guests to the art of sustainable agriculture at the highest level. Katina, for her part, is a master gardener who runs the 24-acre farm that is the back bone to the absolute freshest ingredients used in the restaurant. The 10-course tasting menu not only draws from the biodiversity of their farm, but also from the couple’s passion for Japanese culture and cooking techniques.
Blue Ridge Kitchen
Maybe a farmhouse-style wood grill is more your style? Blue Ridge Kitchen is billed as “California comfort food with a Southern drawl,” which was an easy sell for me with specials like smoked prime rib and shrimp and grits, but the BRK family bucket of drunken fried chicken with Kentucky hot butter and apple honey was absolutely mouthwatering.
The Birds Cafe
A quick stop at The Birds Cafe in Bodega Bay will get you recharged for the endless, rugged, and dramatic vistas the Northern Pacific coast is famous for. Just past the Sonoma Coast State Park, you will find Route 116, winding its way adjacent to the breathtaking Russian River, the namesake of one of the top winemaking regions in Sonoma, and back to Monte Rio.
Where to Drink
Flowers Vineyard & Winery
You are in no better spot for this category. I chose Flowers Vineyard & Winery for the best that Sonoma has to offer, and it didn’t disappoint. At an elevation of 1,875 feet, the views are stunning. The Walker Warner Architects-designed tasting room and surrounding landscape combine to create a quiet refuge. With a rich history touted as one of the first vineyards on the Sonoma Coast, the mountaintop ridgeline estate has biodynamic and organically farmed grapes with a cult following, including Megan Markle’s favorite pinot noir (and incidentally, mine too). Tastings start at $75 per person, or you can enjoy the full estate and vineyard immersion for $125 each.
Ace It Santa Rosa Bike ‘n Brew Tour
It’s hard to believe, but wine is not the only libation that Sonoma excels at. Artisans from over two dozen breweries, cideries, and distilleries all equally represent their craft in the region. In case you’re wondering, you can take guided craft brewery tours in Sonoma. (The adventurous folks can try the Ace It Santa Rosa Bike ‘n Brew Tour.)
Russian River Brewing Company
Russian River Brewing Company has 20-plus house-made brews to choose from. I loved the forefather of the Younger, Pliny the Elder. The pub grub is only a slight diversion from higher-end Cali cuisine, with munchies and meals that pair well with the ales, lagers, and barrel-aged Belgian-style beers on tap. The Happy Hops was the perfect pairing to the mouthwatering Fontanini meatball sandwich.
Where to Stay
Montage Healdsburg
Once again embracing the environmental preservation so crucial to Sonoma’s ethos, the luxurious bungalow-style rooms at Montage Healdsburg dedicate one third of their space to outdoor living, and sit above the land blending in with the natural surroundings. The warm and contemporary rooms all have a private balcony featuring a fire pit table, as well as an additional private outdoor shower. The Montage contains two pools (one just for adults), a health club overlooking the vineyard—complete with yoga among the vines—a secluded spa, and three signature dining options, all inspired by region’s ecological and culinary heritage. Outdoor enthusiasts of all ages can head to the bike cave and take part in excursions from hiking and biking (including e-bikes) around the resort, archery, and pickleball. To experience Sonoma from a bird’s eye view, check out the helicopter tours.
Dawn Ranch
The newly opened Dawn Ranch is just steps from the Russian River and the town of Guerneville, a sleepy hamlet that’s equally relaxing, chic, and a bit tacky in the best possible way. The stage is set as you are welcomed by way of its expansive restored lodge dating back to the 1900s. Then, indulge in rejuvenation and self-discovery through programs like scent-making classes, forest bathing, and guided foraging amongst the giant redwoods, to name a few. Luxury accommodations range from chalets and cottages to cabins and bungalows. Ask about rooms with a Fender guitar and the Fender Play learning app and you just might be the next star at the nightly campfires. Boasting five dining options, the vegetable-forward menus evolve with the seasons, and the beverage scene has a little bit of everything local, including wine (naturally), craft beer, and a cocktail program with a twist (I personally loved the Hemingway: Death in the Afternoon, created with St. George Absinthe Verite.) Finally, to unwind, a Sweet Birch Magnesium Bath in a custom handmade Japanese ofuro soaking tub to the white noise of the Russian River will surely cure whatever it is that ails you.
MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa
MacArthur Place Hotel and Spa has a slightly different aesthetic from its natural surroundings, yet is still grounded in the true spirit of Sonoma. Set on a historic 19th-century estate, the hotel takes its architectural inspiration from an 1850s Victorian-style house with 10 guest rooms. Among the remaining accommodations there are also premium garden suites with a private patios, fireplaces, and outdoor showers, all surrounded by a gorgeous zen garden with blooming magnolia trees . Dining options include a three-meal Mediterranean kitchen featuring hearty items like a 32 oz. Australian wagu steak, paired perfectly with the signature Vesper Martini (Monkey 47 gin, Absolut Elyx vodka, and Lillet Blanc). Nestled on the grounds is an inviting pool, fitness center (with complimentary yoga classes every morning), and a spa. Unlike many of the getaways in the region, MacArthur Place is just steps away from the center of town, the colonial-era Sonoma Plaza in the center of Sonoma, which has art galleries, farmers’ markets, and much more.