Basil Chicken Stir-Fry

Modeled after Thai pad kra pao, this simple, speedy chicken stir-fry is wonderful for summer—and beyond. Where the traditional version uses fresh chiles, this recipe replaces them with bottled sambal oelek to keep things pantry-friendly. Combined with oyster sauce, fish sauce, and a bit of sugar, it’s a savory-spicy explosion of flavor that belies how quickly the dish comes together. Vigorously stirring the ground meat with a bit of liquid yields a bouncy texture, while the baking soda contributes to a juicy end result. This two-pronged approach transforms a lean protein (that often tastes dry) into something springy and tender.

Sweet basil is an excellent substitute for the holy basil of the original; use the latter if you can find it. Outside of summer, swap in an equal quantity of baby spinach. Ground turkey or ground pork work well in place of the ground chicken.