Nihari (Pakistani Beef Stew)

Once a breakfast staple for South Asia’s Muslim royalty and later hearty pre-work day sustenance of the working class, nihari is now an all-day affair in Pakistan, where this slow-cooked meat stew is heralded as the country’s national dish. Often made with beef or lamb shanks and marrow bones, it’s easy to substitute cuts like beef stew meat, oxtail, short ribs, or brisket. At its core, nihari is not that different in concept from its global counterparts goulash, pot au feu, or birria—a lazy, hearty, and heartwarming stew.

When I was growing up, nihari was a special occasion meal at the mosque, where we ate it with naan or thickly sliced French bread. When I started cooking it for myself a decade ago, and eventually my family, I began to experiment. I’ve made it with brisket, inspired by the coffee-braised brisket from Michael Solomonov. I’ve treated it like a French dip, the tender meat nestled inside sliced warm French bread, stuffed with cilantro, ginger, and green chiles—the broth served as a sidecar to dunk the sandwich. I’ve made nihari for Easter, Eid, and a number of occasions in between. It’s a simple braise that feeds a crowd and feels incredibly celebratory.

For me, nihari made with a homemade spice blend is the most complex tasting. That said, nihari made with store-bought masala (I turn to the Shan brand my mom always has in her pantry) is spicier and more convenient to assemble. Compared to lamb shanks, beef short ribs are easily found, with a good balance of meat to bone, resulting in a rich broth and one-pot meal that is equally comforting and impressive.