Silken Tofu With Black Bean Garlic Sauce

In the midst of developing more than 85 recipes for his debut cookbook, Salt Sugar MSG, chef Calvin Eng of Bonnie’s in Brooklyn reached a tipping point. He grew sick and tired of his own cooking, unable to muster the energy or interest to make yet another dinner. The saving grace? His homemade black bean garlic sauce. Made from fermented black soy beans and a handful of other pantry ingredients, it keeps nicely in the fridge for a few weeks, ready to pull out at a moment’s notice and spoon over “silky, savory egg custard, or steamed fish, tossed with clams in a hot pan, or simply stir fried with vegetables.” Or used in this version favored by Eng’s toddler—stir-fried with ground beef and poured over silken tofu.

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